ServicesGarage Floors
Concrete Garage Floors in Laguna Niguel
When a garage floor has sunk, heaved or been patched too many times, we take it out and pour a new one. We dig into what is under the old slab, fix the base, and leave you a flat, solid floor that drains toward the door.
A new floor, not another patch
A garage floor carries a car every day, plus oil, water from wet tires and the weight of shelves and freezers. After a few decades it shows. Cracks open up, slabs drop near the door, and old patches pop loose.
Older garages often hide the real problem below the concrete. We find thin slabs poured with no rebar, rusted wire mesh, fill dirt that was never packed, and old repairs that covered a low spot instead of fixing it. Pouring a new floor over the same bad base just restarts the clock.
So our garage floor work is a full replacement. We break out the old slab, look at what is underneath, correct it, and pour new concrete sized for the load. If your driveway is in the same shape, we can plan both jobs together so the apron and the floor meet clean.
What the job includes
Clearing and protection
You empty the garage. We cover the walls, water heater and door tracks so dust and splatter stay off them.
Demolition and haul-off
We saw-cut the edges so the walls and stem footings are not damaged, break out the old slab and haul away every piece.
Base correction
We dig out soft or wet soil, bring in new base rock and compact it in layers. This is the step most failed floors skipped.
Reinforcement and vapor barrier
We set rebar on chairs so it sits inside the slab, not on the dirt. Where it makes sense, we lay a vapor barrier to cut down on moisture coming up through the floor.
Pour, slope and finish
We pour, set a gentle slope toward the door so water runs out, and give it a smooth or broom finish. Control joints are cut so any shrinkage cracks land in a straight line.
Signs your garage floor is due
A low spot that holds water
If puddles sit in the same place after you wash the car, the base under that spot has settled.
The slab dropped at the door
A gap or lip between the garage floor and the driveway usually means washed-out fill near the edge.
Wide or shifting cracks
Hairline cracks are normal. Cracks you can fit a coin in, or where one side sits higher, point to movement below.
Patches that keep failing
Thin patch material on an old floor tends to flake and lift. When the patches need patches, a new slab is the honest answer.
Damp floor or flaking surface
Older floors poured with no barrier can wick moisture, which ruins coatings and leaves the top crumbling.
How the work goes
- 1
Look and measure
We walk the garage, check the slope, cracks and edges, and talk about what you park and store there. Then you get a written estimate that lists each part of the job.
- 2
Permit and scheduling
We check whether the city needs a permit for your floor and pull it when it does. We pick a pour day and tell you how long the garage will be out of use.
- 3
Tear-out and base work
Demolition usually takes a day. If we find surprises under the old slab, like broken drain lines or a past repair packed with debris, we show you photos and explain the fix before we go on.
- 4
Pour day
We place rebar, pour, finish and cut the joints. The crew cleans up the drive and street before leaving.
- 5
Curing and handback
You can walk on the floor in a day or two. We tell you when it is ready for a car, which is usually about a week, so the slab is not stressed early.
What sets the price
Every garage is a little different, so we price from what we see on site. The size of the floor matters, but what is under the old slab often matters more. Your written estimate spells out each item so you know where the money goes.
- Floor size and thickness
- A two-car garage takes more concrete and labor than a single. A thicker slab for heavy trucks or a shop setup adds material.
- Condition of the base
- Good, firm soil needs light prep. Soft fill, wet ground or old buried debris means more digging and new base rock.
- Access for demolition
- A clear driveway lets us run equipment and trucks right up to the door. Tight access or a long carry takes more time.
- Old work under the slab
- Older floors sometimes cover old drain lines or thick past repairs. Removing or working around them adds labor.
- Permit and finish
- Permit fees, a vapor barrier and the finish you choose all show up as separate lines on the estimate.
Garage floor questions
Something not covered here? (949) 312-4765
Can you just pour new concrete over my old garage floor?
We don't recommend it. A thin layer on top raises the floor against the door and the house step, and it cracks wherever the old slab moves. Taking the old slab out lets us fix the base that caused the trouble.
How long will I be without my garage?
Plan on about a week before you park in it again. Demolition and base work take a day or two, the pour is one day, and the rest is curing time. We give you the schedule up front.
Will the new floor crack?
Concrete shrinks as it cures, so small cracks can show up. We cut control joints so those cracks follow straight lines, and the rebar and packed base keep the pieces from shifting apart.
Can I put an epoxy coating on it later?
Yes. New concrete needs to cure and dry out first, usually about a month. A vapor barrier under the slab helps a coating hold up, so tell us early if you plan one.
Do I have to move everything out?
Yes, the garage needs to be empty, including shelves bolted to the floor. Items on wall hooks above floor level can often stay, and we cover them.
Ready for a solid garage floor
Tell us how the floor looks and what you park on it. We'll set a time to see it and walk you through what a new slab involves.